We arrived in Bikaner and went straight  to a rather famous Hostel called Vino's Guesthouse.We met Vino and his family,including his grandaughter who must of only been  a couple of months old,we already felt this one was really family orientated.The guesthouse had couple of private rooms inside,and out the back in the garden were some individual rooms which looked amazing.I washed my clothes and draped them over the bushes,which a few people seemed to be doing.In the guesthouse we met a nice Dutch guy called Casper,who was really into Archeaology and Bikaner apparently was the place to be for it as it hadn't been spoilt by tourism.Also we met a German couple called Saskia and Simon.I ate some food,and noticed it was incredibly salty,apparently this is due to the desert conditions,because you sweat so much you release alot of salt in doing so,so to replenish the salt they put it in the food,which made you drink more anyway.Simon said he was abit ill,they thought it was either a nasty flu or malaria,they will find out the next day when Vino takes him to hospital.
That day I explored abit of Bikaner with Saskia and Bitt,but not Simon as he was ill.We wandered through the streets for a while as we needed an ATM.As we were walking a shit load of people came from nowhere,many kids and adults just mobbed us.The kids wanted pens, pencils and books(all the kids in India ask for them) but we had none unfortunately.We took photos of people we met and showed them.There must of been about 80 people that came down to meet us and talk to us,they all were very friendly and chatty.We left to go onwards with our walk until we were followed by about 4 teenagers,apparently showing us the way to the ATM.We kept saying we would find our own way yet they still followed us.Britt had said to me they were getting extremely touchy feely with Saskia and asking her rude questions,so I got in between them and told them to back off.We arrived at the ATM only for them to look down her bra and say some really crude words.What a bunch wankers.Anyway after shooing them away we proceeded to go to a temple in the area which is famous for housing thousands of rats.The rats they believe to be one of 82 re-incarnations,apparently very high up and very holy.If we saw a white rat in this temple it meant that person was extremely lucky.Going in we saw our first rat,then our second,then to the left was a huge bowl full of milk with hundreds of rats around it drinking it.To me that was just disgusting to see.To the right was a fence with a big wooden wheel with thousands of the rats around it.A rough peice of paper was on the floor as I was walking and didn't see it and it touched my foot,I thought it was a rat and jumped up,an older woman in her 60s was pissing herself laughing at me,we didn't know each others language at all but had a giggle together.
Walking through the many streets a couple of boys shouted over to his to go with him into his house,we obliged,why not? We got to there house where there was the Mother,three young boys,an older sister who didn't seem to be interested in us,and there grandmother.The house they lived in was about 250 years old and was stunning,it had amazing wooden artwork on the ceiling and a great looking kitchen.They were incredibly welcoming and gave us chai tea,bits of nibbles and soft biscuit made of ground almonds which was amazing to taste.We talked for about an hour and took a few photos with them.There hospitality was something I had never seen before,can you imagine someone doing that in the UK? Invite a complete stranger from the street to give them food,drink and to talk to,and absolutely nothing in return other then our respect and gratitude.Times was obviously hard for them,but every single one of them had the biggest smile,that showed me that you definitely don't need money to make you happy,just a loving family and friends that are close to you.
That night me,Britt and Casper went to eat somewhere,then this voice appeared and asked me about my tattoo,I showed him,and then he asked Casper that he knew him and he was Dutch,a tad odd.His name was Raffi  and he was a student studying languages and he told us about a local restaurant called Metro down the road which was fairly cheap.Raffi couldn't eat as it was still ramadan so he left before we ate.The 3 of us got 3 different meals and shared it between ourselves.
The next day me and Britt went to a famous Camel Research centre where we wandered around for abit looking at the many camels they had enclosed.It brought back memories of me running around the dessert hanging off the back of one.I drank coffee that was made of camel milk and an ice-cream that was made from camel milk and pistachio nuts,it had a really weird taste like it was abit spicey.I bought a bracelet for around 80p that was made of camel teeth.Everytime the camels died naturally they made handicrafts out of the skin and teeth.

Our last full day in Bikaner and it was Eid Mubarak for Muslims.Raffi told us about we could watch the ceremony from a roof top that overlooked this special holy ground that could hold 8,000 people.We got to the rooftop and the family gave us chai tea and a few nibbles to eat.Although I am not religious in any way it was just great to watch what they were doing,and have been doing for thousands of years,and traditions that haven't changed.
Raffi then later on took us to his house and we had chai tea and some sort of milky broth that had noodles and saffron in,they always had it after the ceremony.He then took us too a textile shop and looked at hundreds of carpets and scarfs,all very beautiful to see but way out of my price range and I had no interest in,althought I did buy a really nice scarf instead.I got thinking to myself though as Raffi seemed to know everyone in there,and we had seen people there that we had seen earlier in the day at Raffi's house,this must be some sort of business arrangement and Raffi gets a commission cut on what they sell.
Later on we were going for a meal and said to Raffi we would pay for him as he was so nice to us.Funnily enough it was at the same restaurant as before,Metro and he seemed to know all the waiters in there.When everyone else went to the toilet I asked Raffi what job he did for a living,he said he photographs people,which was alot different to what he had said earlier,studying languages?
The followng morning me and Britt took a train to Jodhpur.We both were in different ques too see if who could get there faster as there seemed to be no formal que,people pushed in and I was getting impatient.I won and said to the woman two to Jodhpur please with AC but she didn't quite understand me and gave us Sleeper section without AC.So we got on the train and it turned out to be rather rough and squished.Many many people got on and there were no rules,the windows didn't really open that well and the fans had so much dust on them it was pointless.People at nearly every stop would climb onto the roof of the train,and it felt like it was raining as it was hitting my arm but it wasn't,my only guess was people were peeing from the roof,I was so glad I had wipes with me.
Arriving in Jodhpur we were hounded again by rickshaw drivers asking us where we wanted to go etc,we went over to one that was on his own and quiet.Talking to him nicely saying that we wanted to go to Discovery guesthouse,then another driver was so rude and butted in,told the nice driver to go away by shouting at him.We moved on to some more and he followed us,tapping Britt on the shoulder and telling us to go with him,I tapped him on the shoulder and waved my finger at him and told him to back off.He got the message eventually.We got to Discovery and after refreshing ourselves we went to the rooftop to get some food,in the background we had a huge cliff face that had a huge ancient fort ontop of it.And the rest of the town had hundreds of blue houses,which were the mark of the Brahman caste again.We went for a walk and went to the fort ontop of the cliff.The entry fee allowed us to have an audio guide,which was a pair of headphones and a machine that told us about each stop.Walking around we heard some music so we investigated to find a young man stitting down on a blanket with a strange banjo (you laugh I will kill you) looking instrument.He sang and played this instrument incredibly and it just sounded so haunting.I could of sat and watched him play for a couple of hours.Finally after being in India for nearly a month I found some traditional Indian music.We went to Sardar market where we drank some saffron lassi (milkshake) and wandered around for abit.We ate that night at this place that had the cliff edge in the background which was pretty cool,and Britt got talking to this gay couple from America who was on the table next to us.It turned out they were in India for a while and had there own private car for there whole trip,which seemed really odd to me.They said when they got to Jaisalmer which is in the middle of knowhere that they saw people shitting and pissing in the street,and it was very dirty.....sorry but you came to India! I have seen that many times from males and females,it's the norm here unfortunately.They made me laugh though,complaining about different things,it just made me wondered why they would come to India,and what they expected to see here.
The following day we pottered around Jodhpur to explore abit,then a bunch of kids ran out of a house and asked us to come in,a young 15 year old girl also asked us to go in.Walking through the front room the mother was asleep on the floor,she woke with our walking and the kids scurrying around.The young 15 year old spoke excellent English and was translating for us.They also gave us chai tea and we talked for a while.There was a young girl of about 4 who was like a jumping bean,she just bounced everywhere,she then brought a cabbage in for us and expected us to play catch with it,we felt bad as obviously it was there dinner.We took a few photos and Britt said she would send them when she goes home.We left as we had things to do that day.We arrived at Jodhpurs Royal Palace and went into the museum,which was the only section open as it still housed there Royal family.We ate lunch that day at a famous place just outside the Sardar market called 'The Omellette man',it was in the lonely planet guide so we thought it must be good.I had a Spanish omelette sandwhich and it tasted amazing,but there were flies everywhere.That night we ate at another different place that had traditional Indian music.There was two young men playing instruments and singing and a young lady who was dancing.It sounded amazing yet again,and the lady began to dance to the music.She then proceeded to ask every female to get up and dance with.
Our next destination was to be Pushkar and we arrived in a place called Agmer to get a connecting bus.I began to feel extremely bad,a bad stomach,and very drowsy.We just about squeezed onto the connecting bus,but it was extremely hot,and I was feeling worse.I was standing up but with my head on my bag as I was going to pass out soon,I said to Britt that I needed to get off asap and we stopped by the side of a road.I sat down shaking all over,and couldn't stop it.In doing so I didn't realise I was sat in piss,until a really nice group of lads who were sculpturing some statues said for me to move to a dry spot.I sat down on my bag and drank a whole bottle of water.After I was able to stand and was a little better we got on another bus and we arrived in Pushkar sometime later.Getting off we were greeted by many guys asking us for us to stay at there hostels,but we were dead set on staying at a famous one called 'The Milkman'.Arriving at the hostel I don't really remember much,I think it was to do with a combination of low sugar levels and the Omelette sandwhich that I had the previous day.So I had a fresh lemon soda to try and make me feel better.Britt looked after me that day and if she hadn't of been there I have no idea what would of happened,for that I thank her.
The Milkman had a restaurant on the top floor,which overlooked some trees,it looked really tropical and the room itself had lounge areas,perfect for relaxing.Our private rooms had a tv and artwork all over the walls, one of the walls was a erotic painting of a woman.That day I began to feel better but was still violently ill,so I just drank plenty of water.Walking down a market street we were greeted by a old holy man who put pink flowers in our hands,he took us down to one of the Holy Ghats next to the lake,and began to bless us,I thought something was dodgy but listened to the man.After the blessing he asked for 100 rupees which I refused as I don't like to be pushed into things,especially if I didn't ask for it,I felted duped but it was a lesson learnt.We then went to a local place for chai tea,which turned out to be 250 rupees each,around £3 each,that was a tad expensive,chai tea only costs 20 rupees usually.Britt decided to leave for Agra and I was going to Delhi instead as I was going south afterwards,so now I am on my own again,which is quite weird after travelling with someone for a while.
My next stop was to be Delhi again,somewhere I didn't really wanted to go but was the easiest way to go South.On the bus about 8pm in total darkness in Pushkar we literally left for 2 minutes and there was a huge bang,the left front tyre blew,we sat on the bus for around 40 minutes while they fixed it.I thought to myself I was incredibly lucky the bus was only going about 15mph and not 70mph plus.We got to Delhi and I met a Korean guy who was also on the bus with me,so we decided to go to the same hostel.We went to Pahar Ganj which is majorly touristy part of Delhi.But hostels were cheapest there.Our hostel for some reason had many Japanese and as we entered the dorm room,a young Japanese lad started talking to the Korean guy in Japanese.The Korean guy was oblivious as he couldn't understand him and said 'I'm Korean' to which the Japanese guy said 'Oh I thought you were Japanese by your face'.I had to laugh but I thought it was incredibly rude of him.
I learnt a few things about Koreans while I was with him as he had been in the South Korean army for 10 years,but dropped out as he didn't want to face killing anybody,especially with the added tensions nowadays with Japan and North Korea.Every South Korean male has to join the army for at least two years,and has to be in some sort of civil servant afterwards,otherwise they would be put into jail.The Korean guy I was with was travelling for around 3 months,and if there was a war then he would be ordered to go back and fight for his country no matter what.He also said that nobody in North Korea is allowed outside of their country,if they get smuggled out and found they will be put in jail and tortured.There is also a space inbetween South Korea and the North that is about 10 miles deep,that has many mines and nobody is allowed to cross it,sometimes animals try to but  don't succeed.Before South and North Korea were divided there were families that lived in both,but after the divide they could no longer see each other,or contact each other in any way.For someone who is from the UK,where we have freedom to hear this it was heartbreaking for me,I can't imagine not having the right to travel where I want to go,or do whatever job I want to do,or see whoever I want,I count myself lucky and proud to have that human right,for some are not so lucky.
So I decide to go to Khajuraho next as I want to go south,towards Goa.I could of just flown from New Delhi but I figured that's too easy,and travel to a few places in between.My train was air conditioned and alot better then the previous sleeper one that we had got back in Bikaner.There were blankets and a pillow,which I felt that finally I could sleep easy on a night train.I got to talking to a young lad next to me as I was listening to some music,he also liked music.We talked for a while and he wanted to know what kind of music I was listening too.So I bluetooth him some of Andy C,Calyx and Teebee,Hamilton,Wilkinson,Loadstar,Culture Shock etc which are all drum and bass artists.I'm not sure whether he liked it or not,but sharing music no matter where you are from is great I think.
Some days previous I was talking to a young man on Couch Surfing as I intended to do so,he said he couldn't house me as he had a German guy with him for a few days and he was going to Delhi till the 3rd September,his reviews seemed positive and sounded like a nice guy.Getting off the train I was greeted by hordes of rickshaw drivers again,at 6am in the morning,which was horrid as I'd literally just woke up.I took one to Hostel Surya and stayed there for one night,it was  expensive but I thought the view was great.On the rickshaw drive over a guy on a bike was shouting me,the driver said 'Is your name David?' I said 'Yes' but wondered who he was and how he knew my name,this was the guy from Couch Surfing,a little odd I thought.So I got to my hostel and he stands outside and says can I go for tea with him.I drop my things off and go for a shower as I stank like a goat.We went for tea around the corner and chat for abit,turns out he wants to open his own travel agent in the future in Khajuraho,bells start to ring a little for me,and he tells me about a local Hostel called Isabelle Palace,it was alot cheaper then the one I was staying at so I figured I'd check it out.It looked amazing and he said he could get the room on the cheap.So I wanted to stay there the next day,but he said to me not to tell the current hostel as they wouldn't like it,again a little odd.So I go back to my hostel for his friend to ask me if I want to go round Khajuraho and he would take me,so I agreed and he would come back later while I took a nap.Instead I went on the wifi on my netbook and go on the Couch Surfing site again,and after going a couple of pages down the review section this man had history, for example locking someones bag in a room while he was in it and wouldn't let the owner in,managed to steal alot of money from people,and a few other scams.So all the alarm bells are ringing now and I refuse to go with any of them.I wrote an email to him thanking him for his gratitude but after reading the reviews I will not go with him.
The next day I go to another hostel down the road which I thought was cheaper,but there dorms are still under construction,I got a room which was still rather pricey but I figured it was a nice place to stay,and had free wifi.The hostel is really nice and looks exotic,a little bit too 'Honeymoonish' for me,but its spacious.For a few days I just chill out in the room as I had been tired of travelling,and just wanted to slow down abit.I had the most amazing Egg Curry and naan bread for my first night here,and the second day I had a dry potato curry which was with lots of spices,and naan bread again.On my last day full day in Khajuraho I ventured out to see the Western temples,which are famous for being like the Kama Sutra.Most of them just looked incredible,and so artistic,especially knowing that they are over 1,000 years old it was great to just walk around.I went to a restaurant opposite the temples as I was so hungry.The restaurant itself was bare apart from one guy.I tucked into my Indian food,then two men come into the place with two big,silver suitcases and one Nepalese guard with a machine gun,I was thinking to myself 'What the fuck'.They didn't order any food or drinks,and spoke for about 5 minutes,then exchanged suitcases and left.I only thought to myself what was in those suitcases,and who were they.My next place will be Jhansi  to get a connecting two day train to Goa,there I will be at a little place on the West coast called Anjuna Beach,yes that's right Trance lovers,the birthplace of Above and Beyonds own record label....